Tasting Room Confidential

Vaynerchuk eats dirt, but I'll smell it

Mari Kane — Fri, 18 Jan 2008 20:42:00 +0000

It had been a long time since I tuned into Wine Library TV and listened to host Gary Vaynerchuk rant and rave about the wines he tastes on line. The guy really knows how to flash describe things he puts in his mouth and nose, and can be extremely entertaining when he’s not talking about football. I used to watch him religiously.

I also missed Vaynerchuk’s appearances on the Conan O’Brien and Ellen Degeneres shows last year, but caught them recently, on the tv.winelibrary.com site. In both shows, Gary teaches “palate building” by encouraging his hosts to eat grass, dirt, and tobacco and to lick stones soaked in salt water. The results are hilarious, especially with O’Brian, who also sucks on his own dirty sock.

Conan tastes dirt, cigars, wet rock, socks and mor - Watch more free videos

Vaynerchuk’s point in this dirt eating exercise is to help people identify the myriad flavors of wine by going to the sources. Why? It seems that no matter how much people love to eat and identify the flavors of food, they are completely lost when they put wine to their nose.

O’Brien said, “To describe it, they’ll say ‘grass and grapefruit,’ and I don’t even know what that means!”

Oh, sure. He’s never smelled fresh-cut grass nor tasted a grapefruit? Yeah. Right. What he means is that he doesn’t recall the flavors of a grapefruit or the smell of grass when he tastes a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but he would if he engaged his brain.

I hear it all the time, people read a wine review, think it’s a different language, and ask me if that reviewer was just being snobby. I’ll say, yes, he/she’s probably a snob, but what he/she said has basis in fact. The descriptions may sound inaccessible, but Ancient Greek it ain’t.

For instance, oaky means like oak, or wood, from trees that grow in your yard. Grassy means like grass, also grown in your yard. Fruity mean like fruit, a lot of it. That stuff might also be growing in your yard. Earthy means like earth - or dirt – definitely found in your yard.

These are basic descriptors, to be sure, but they are not so elusive when you tap into your sensorial memory bank. After all, when something is described as tinny sounding, you know it sounds like a tin can. A food described as salty you know is full of salt. Velvety soft means soft to the touch, like velvet. Since that’s how discriminations are made about just about everything, why should a tobacco-y wine be such a mystery?

The trick is in the thinking and recalling, and the connections made between different substances. When you close your eyes, tune out noise and sink your nose into a swirling goblet of wine, it’s really not that hard to think about what you smell.

But here is where I differ with Vaynerchuk’s entreaty to eat dirt in order to understand earthiness. All you need to do is smell it. The nose is much more responsible for flavor discernment than the tongue. For instance, when the waiter pours a sample of a newly opened bottle, one inhalation is all it takes to determine corkiness. Sipping only validates sniffing.

Therefore, all one really needs to do to develop one’s palate is go through the day with nostrils wide open. Walk down the street to take in the aroma of petrol (German rieslings), road tar (Rhone reds), the minerality of wet cement (Sancerre), as well as the mustiness of wet cardboard (corked wine). Hike through a park to inhale forest floor (zinfandel), mushrooms (pinot noir), guava trees (chardonnay) rose petals (gewurztraminer), and cedar (cabernet sauvignon). Stroll through the Granville Island public market and breathe in yeastiness (aged champagne), dried meat (syrah), chocolate (Bordeaux) and body sweat (sauvignon blanc). The trick is to remember those smells when you are nosing a wine. It’s that simple.

This is just the beginning of understanding wine, but an ability to identify flavors is the first step to fending off the snobbishness. Most of what I know about wine I smelled right in my own back yard.

Dudley’s Big Shot

Mari Kane — Fri, 07 Dec 2007 03:25:00 +0000

In case you didn't hear, my entry in the Wine Spectator's first video contest, not only didn't win, it wasn't even nominated. Well, harummph. That's the last time I produce a creepy but true film about photographing Dudley Moore for the very magazine that is, er, judging and producing the video contest. Yes, well, the 1 year subscription prize is a consolation.

This video sprang from a chapter from Confessions of a Wine Slut, ultimately deleted because it just didn't move the story along. Funny that.

Get lost and happy in wine country

Mari Kane — Fri, 30 Nov 2007 05:06:00 +0000

Over 50 B.C. wineries in four days. Are you up for it?
By Mari Kane
From the WE Westender
April 5, 2007

The Okanagan Valley has finally begun to embrace its inner Napa. In the past seven years, the area often referred to as BC’s fruit basket has gone from 60 to 133, with a further 24 license applications currently in process. Over 50 tasting rooms are open and pouring their new releases, making spring the best time to purchase soon-to-be rare limited-edition bottles.

B.C. wines struggled for years to gain the respect of international wine snobs, but that situation has turned around in a big way over the past 10 years. Carol Nelson at BC Tourism says that the demand for local juice still exceeds supply.

“Wine consumption in BC has grown overall by 29% in the past 5 years, yet consumption of BC wine grew by 32%,“ she says. “That means BC wines are leading in terms of sales in BC.”

The reason for this is that, quite simply, Okanagan wines have never been better. Last year, the wine world shook when Jackson Triggs 2004 Proprietor’s Grand Reserve Shiraz won the Rosemount Trophy for Best Shiraz at the International Wine and Spirits Competition in London, England. Bottles of it are now nowhere to be found.

Calvin Des Chene is the sommelier at downtown Vancouver’s O’Doul’s Restaurant and Bar, where BC wines featured prominently. He says the continual improvement in B.C. wine’s are a result of experienced varietal placement, vineyard management, and vine maturity.

“And with the influx of talented winemakers into BC, combined with this better fruit quality, the quality of wines has steadily improved. I don’t think we’re peaking yet.”

Although the Okanagan is planted with mostly vinifera grapes, a European grape mostly cultivated for winemaking) there are still lots of unpronounceable hybrids to check out. Crisp whites such as Auxerrios, Siegerrebe, Lemberger and Ehrenfelser will slap your palate to attention and reds like Gamay Noir, Blaufrankisch, Maréchal Foch and Zweigelt are sure to put a twist in your tongue.

Okanagan wineries are all about diversity. In the time it takes your car’s air conditioning to kick in, travelers can drive between a winery that’s an architectural wonder(i.e. Mission Hill) and a modest-looking but entirely respectable suburban garage to taste wine. And even the smallest operation might have a sandwich bar, so you’ll never go hungry.

For newcomers to the valley, Nelson suggests attending the spring and fall wine festivals.

“You get all these different wineries under one roof and you can find out which wineries you want to visit,” she says.

This year’s Spring Wine Fest runs May 3 – 6, and includes a 40-winery Bacchanalia at the Penticton Lakeside Resort.

DesChene’s favourite winery visits are Quails’ Gate, for its log cabin tasting room, Lake Breeze for the patio, and Burrowing Owl, where no expense is spared on its amazing facility.

“The most educational tour is the self-guided walkabout at Tinhorn Creek,” he adds.

Here is my idea of the perfect long weekend in the Okanagan. It includes 4 days, 3 nights, visits to 6-10 wineries per day, and enough wine to make experts out of neophytes. Be sure to bring a teetotaler, because a designated driver is essential.

Kelowna

Driving to Kelowna is a four-hour trip. If you don’t have a car, or lack the desire to bring one, it’s easy to hop a flight into Kelowna International Airport and rent a car.

From Kelowna, go north on Hwy 97 for your most northerly excursion into Lake Country. Go to Grey Monk for the kind of aromatic whites this cooler region does best: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Riesling.

After a visit to Arrowleaf Cellars, you will be southward bound for the next four days. Pass through Kelowna and head to the Summerhill Pyramid Winery for their organically grown Brut sparkling. Continue down Chute Lake Road to St Hubertus and Cedar Creek. Stop at Tantalus Vineyards (by appointment) and you will have done Kelowna’s east side.

Cross back over the floating bridge to the town of Westbank, where the wineries are so close you could almost walk between them. The view from Mission Hill’s Terrace café makes dodging the tour buses worth the effort. You can meander through the monasterial courtyard while deciding whether to take their tour. If not, snap some photos and head down to Little Straw and Mount Boucherie for their Pinots and Gamays. Down the road, the new Rollingdale Winery is open by appointment. Finish the day over dinner in the Old Vines Restaurant at Quails Gate Winery. After all that wine, a frothy beer might be in order.

Penticton

Begin each day with a sharp, citric breakfast wine, or better yet, bubbly. On day two, drive south to Sumac Ridge Estate Winery for a flute of Brut and an omelet in their Cellar Door Bistro. Fortify well, as it is time for a decision. Whether to check out the Summerland wineries – Dirty Laundry, Thornhaven, Sonoran Estate, Calliope and Adora - or head straight to the Naramata Bench.

With over 14 wineries on the ten-mile bench and only one narrow road winding in or out, Naramata has more than enough tasting rooms to occupy an afternoon. Picnicking is encouraged at Lang, Lake Breeze and Red Rooster, and fine cheeses are found at Poplar Grove. Check out old timers Kettle Valley, La Frenz and Nichol, as well as newer shops like Township 7, Therapy, Laughing Stock, Mistral and the brand new D’Angelo’s.

The question is: where do you want to be at closing time? I suggest the Barrel Room Bistro at Hillside Estates, where the view from the bell tower will inspire you to work off your meal climbing it.

Oliver

Have a big breakfast and say goodbye to the mighty Okanagan. Say hello to Skaha Lake, which will guide you into Okanagan Falls. There, you can choose among Hawthorn Mountain, Blasted Church, Wild Goose and Stags Hollow, all with terrific views of the valley.

By afternoon, you’ll roll into the desert town of Oliver faced with another quandary: Golden Mile or Black Sage Bench. Welcome to the “Wine Capital of Canada.” Here at the top of the Sonora Desert is where you’ll find the rich Bordeaux-style reds that thrive in the dry heat.

The Golden Mile offers easy winery hopping along Highway 97. Start at Fairview Cellars (by appointment) and proceed to Tinhorn Creek, Gehringer Bothers, Hester Creek, Domaine Combret, Golden Mile, Inniskillin Okanagan and a new winery called Golden Beaver.

Black Sage Bench wineries are somewhat farther apart. Heading south on Number Nine Road you’ll find Silver Sage and the new Oliver Twist Winery. Dodging the tumbling tumbleweeds, follow Black Sage Road to Black Hills Estates, Desert Hills, and the newly-opened Quita Ferrara Winery, until finally arriving at Burrowing Owl. Dinner reservations at the Owl’s Sonora Room Restaurant are highly recommended, as it might be your only chance to taste their most limited wines.

Keremeos

The fourth day begins at aboriginal-owned Nk‘Mip Cellars in desert-like Osoyoos. Pronounced “Inkameep,” the winery is part of an Osoyoos band development that includes a golf course, resort, spa and campground. Lunch is served on the patio with a spectacular view of Osoyoos Lake.

Heading home via the Similkeen Valley means cutting back through Osoyoos, and taking Hwy 3 over the mountains toward Keremeos. Near Cawston, stop at Herder, Crowsnest and Orofino Vineyards. Near the town of Keremeos, you’ll find St. Laszlo Estate Winery, formerly known as Keremeos Vineyards, the oldest producer in the valley.

If you were able to stop at 53 wineries in four days – congratulations! You are a true wine warrior. Even if you hit only half of these tasting rooms, you’ll be more of an authority than most Vancouverites. Cheers!

Cozy up to the Bar

Mari Kane — Sun, 18 Nov 2007 03:14:00 +0000

From the WE Westender
November 15, 2007

It's a dark and stormy night and you’ve got to get out of the house. Your relatives are in town and you need a place to chill with them between the Art Gallery and the opera. Someplace mellow and inviting with a warm feel to ward off the moisture and enough glow to contrast the dreary outside. A place where the drinks are satisfying, the food hearty, and where someone might even know your name.

You need to curl up in a cozy bar.

Bars - or lounges, or taverns, or whatever you prefer to call the place you go to imbibe - run the gamut in Vancouver, but cozy is a matter of taste. A joint that feels like a favourite well-worn sweater to some people might feel like a idtchy, mothe-eaten, charity -fedder castoff to others. That’s why, when your visitors come knocking, it’s good to have a handful of different places to take them. Here’s my favourites.

Bacchus Restaurant and Piano Bar
Wedgwood Hotel – 845 Hornby near Robson
604-689-7777/www.wedgewoodhotel.com
If you want to impress a visiting aunt with old world opulence, take her to Bacchus. Nestled in the Wedgewood Hotel, Bacchus is central to the downtown cultural scene and it offers the kind of atmosphere you see in old Back and White movies. In fact, judging from my eavesdropping, the hotel attracts lots of Hollywood North types.
Coziness Factor: Don’t let the faux-stone walls, marble floors, red velvet couches wingback chairs and roaring fireplace put you off. The staff is far less snooty than the décor suggests. I heard one waiter being downright jocular.
Drinks/Food: An excellent selection of wines by the glass pair with the platter of seven different BC cheeses, for $11. Not so hungry? Every drink comes with two half-carafes of nuts.

Six Acres
203 Carrall Street at Powell
604-488-0110/ www.gastown.org/microsite/moons001
A new-ish saloon in an ancient building, this is where the wild west meets the Belle Époque, From a ground floor table one can look out of the high windows at the wet brick streets and almost see the statue of Gassy Jack tipping his hat.
Coziness Factor: Brick dominates the walls, but wood rules everywhere else. A long bench runs along one side with the saloon chairs reflecting the casual atmosphere. Warm, hanging lamps give the double-level space a warm glow.
Drinks/Food: An abundance of ale and whiskeys share the menu with small plates and hearty sandwiches. A 500 ml bottle of Hobgoblin Ale and the Mexican Wrestler Quesadilla - $7.25 each - will send you out into the cold well sated and not much poorer.

Sylvia Hotel Bar
1154 Gilford Street at Pacific.
604-681-9321/www.sylviahotel.com
After taking visitors on a brisk walk along the seawall the historic Sylvia Hotel serves as a beacon of civility from the wilds of adjacent Stanley Park. The Sylvia was built in 1912 as an apartment house, and when the lounge opened in 1954, it was Vancouver’s first “cocktail bar.”
Coziness Factor: With its austere wood-paneled interior, soft lounge chairs and benches, fireplace and sconce lighting, the bar feels all the more cozy as you gaze through the expansive windows at threatening weather over English bay.
Drinks/Food: If you don’t want to over-imbibe, they have half pints of beer for $3.25. Cocktails like the Sylvia Caesar go for under $8 with wine by that glass topping out at $10. Pair one of those with the crab/shrimp/Swiss stuffed mushrooms, sit back and relish the geniality.
Bonus feature: Free parking in the hotel’s underground lot.

O’Doul’s Restaurant and Bar
1300 Robson Street at Jervis, under the Listel Hotel
604-661-1400/www.odoulsrestaurant.com
O’Douls is the kind of bar that inspires a New York state of mind. Every evening, local and nationally known jazz artists swing from nine to midnight; during Jazz Fest, jam sessions begin when the last set ends. It’s a sophisticated version of the fictional Cheers, where regulars are handed their favorite drink without ordering.
Coziness Factor: Warm sepia tones and rich shades of burgundy frame the elegant wrap-around bar where the comfy stools offer the best views. Farther from the stage are cushioned benches and lounge chairs to snuggle into.
Drinks/Food: The kitchen makes a mean pizza for $13 and the house-made cheesecake ($9) comes in a rotating cycle of flavors to pair with any number of wines by the glass.

Chow
3121 Granville Street near 16th
604-608-2469/www.chow-restaurant.com
Open for less than a year, this neighborhood bistro has garnered raves for surprising food, attentive service and the simple fact that it’s not too loud.
Coziness Factor: Who says ultra modern can’t also be warm and inviting? Chow is like the inside of a cigar box, with candles, backlighting and comfy lounge chairs giving it a cozy edge.
Drinks/Food: They make a killer whiskey sour and the chef-named Le Poirer is a brilliant mix of brandy and pear juice. Both of them make the mouth watering pont-neuf potatoes go down like butter.

The Budget-Minded Wine Tour

Mari Kane — Sun, 04 Nov 2007 23:46:00 +0000

From the WE Westender
November 01, 2007

The Budget-Minded Wine Tour
How to discover a world of wine without leaving the city- or spending a cent

If you think Vancouver is waterlogged, consider its wine-soddeness. This town is such a flowing river of wine it should really be called Vincouver. In addition to the bounty of imported bottles to be found, British Columbia is bloated with local juice: according to the BC Wine Institute (BCWI), 136 provincial wineries produced over 12 million litres in 2006. Hardly any of it left the province. Call it wine retention.

BCWI also says that, on a per-capita basis, British Columbians buy more wine — 13.9 litres per person — than any other Canadians, except those in the Yukon. (And with ongoing climate change, it’s possible the Yukon will someday be the new wine country.)

On the downside, B.C. also leads the nation in liquor prices, with bottles in Vancouver costing around 50 per cent more than in Halifax, and two to three times as much as in the U.S.

So, what’s a budget-minded lush got to do to learn about wine in Vincouver?

Hit the wine shops.

On any given Thursday, Friday, Saturday or Sunday, there are private and provincial wine shops across town pouring samples of their wares — for free! Apart from being a pleasant thing to do, in-store tastings often lead to introductions to new labels, increased understanding of wine, the opportunity to meet other wine lovers, and the chance to taste wines that — let’s face it — most people really can’t afford.

Here are a few of my favourite shops that hold free weekly tasting programs. Some of them I frequent often, and even if I don’t buy the featured wine, I always buy something.

TAYLORWOOD WINE CELLAR VQA
1185 Mainland, 604 408-9463
TaylorwoodWines.com

(Endless RAV line construction makes getting here difficult, but it’s worth the effort.)

Program: Four to six VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) wines are organized either by winery, varietal, the season, or whimsical staff picks. Thursdays 4:30-6:30 p.m.; Sundays 3-5 p.m.

Ambiance: The warmth and coziness of the shop’s décor make you imagine a fireplace crackling in the corner. The dedicated tasting bar exudes the feel of a well-trafficked winery.

Food: Crackers usually, food pairing occasionally. “In a neighbourhood full of restaurants, we think it’s important to focus on the concept of food pairing and to guide customers based on what they eat,” says manager Ashley Pringle.

Staff: The all-woman staff is always pleasant, and they often bring in VQA winemakers or agency reps to pour.

Clientele: Pre-dinner downtown workers and enough regulars to feel clubby. I met my best wine pal there, in the middle of a flight of merlots.

Upcoming: Decanting: When, Why and How; Sunday, Nov. 4.

FIREFLY FINE WINE AND ALES
2857 Cambie, 604 875-3325
FireflyFineWinesAndAles.com

(Under the Plaza 500 Hotel, next to FigMint, facing the RAV line construction. Best reached on foot.)

Program: Two to four wines or four to five wines and ales, organized either by producer or agency, served on an adjacent counter. An Enomatic wine-tasting machine — which holds eight different labels and dispenses a perfect one-ounce pour — is always set on “no charge.” Fridays 4-7 p.m.; Saturdays 2-6 p.m.

Ambiance: Clean, bright, shiny and modern, and after having been open only six months, still no gouges in the floor. It has a spacious walk-in cooler and an amusing arrangement of local and imported wines by style, like “Sweet,” “Spicy,” “Crisp,” “Suave,” and “Teeth Stainers.” “When you shop for food, you don’t shop by country, and wine is no different,” says manager John Hunt.

Food: Occasionally, depending on the event.

Staff: Friendly and knowledgeable, and well supported by agency reps.

Clientele: Hard to define, considering FireFly’s newness and location, but medical professionals and construction workers are likely.

Upcoming: Beaujolais Nouveau paired with appies by FigMint; Thursday, Nov. 15.

VILLAGE VQA KITSILANO
1811 W. 1st, 604 732-8827
VillageVQAWines.com

Program: Usually six wines from one winery or a mix of VQA wineries; Saturdays 2-5 p.m. Food: Sometimes crackers.

Ambiance: Sleek and stylish, making smart use of a space the size of a railroad car.

Staff: As well as being knowledgeable about their wines, the staff and agency reps always seem to be in a convivial mood.

Clientele: Kitsilano young professionals. “We are a part of people’s Saturday routines now, and we have a lot of regulars coming in,” says manager Michelle Lemay.

Upcoming: Tinhorn Creek Winery pours an assortment of reds and whites; Saturday, Nov. 3.

VILLAGE VQA DUNBAR
3525 W. 41st, 604 269-9433
VillageVQAWines.com

Program: Five or six wines from a VQA winery, poured by the agency rep; Saturdays 3-5 p.m.

Ambiance: Straightforward and functional, it’s a slightly wider space than the Kitsilano location, and seems heavily trafficked.

Food: On rare occasions.

Staff: Friendly and chatty, showing a good rapport with their customers and each other.

Clientele: The neighbourhood crowd of Kerrisdale, Dunbar and Southlands.

Upcoming: TBA. Call store for details.

BCLD SIGNATURE STORE
5555 Cambie,
604 660-9463
BCLiquor Stores.com

(The glittering crown jewel in the BCLD chain, this recently expanded store is as centrally located as it gets.)

Program: Five to eight local or international wines, organized by winery, varietal or season, presented by staff, reps or winemakers. Various days and times.

Ambiance: Think supermarket. Surrounded by departments like “Signature Spirits,” “Signature Cellars,” and “Wines of the World,” there’s the “Discover, Enjoy, Share” tasting room. This is not just a dedicated bar, but an entire kitchen devoted to food and wine. Tastefully appointed in steel, tile and wood, it resembles the set of a Food Network show, even without the hanging video screens.

Food: Mounds of bread and cheese, and whatever comes from the kitchen to pair with specific wines. Very generous.

Clientele: Every wine-drinking Vancouverite will shop here at least once a year, even if they don’t need to.

Upcoming: Wines of South Africa; Saturday, Nov. 10, 2-5 p.m.

MARQUIS WINE CELLARS
1034 Davie, 604 684-0445
Marquis-Wines.com

Program: Marquis pours more new wines than anywhere else in town, and organizes them by region or season. Tastings take place every couple of months on a Saturday afternoon. “We’re trying to educate people about what’s out there and to push their limits in a fun way,” says tasting coordinator Jon Ellison.

Ambiance: A spacious, well-lit store with a healthy selection of local and international wines, especially from France.

Staff: Well-trained and knowledgeable, nothing brings out their friendliness like their tastings.

Food: Breads and cheeses.

Clientele: Neighbours and serious collectors.

Upcoming: Champagne and sparkling wines; Saturday, Nov. 17, 1-4 p.m.

Many other wine shops offer occasional free tastings, but they don’t always publicize them. As the holiday season approaches, look for spontaneous tastings supported by wineries and distributors.

• Kitsilano Wine Cellar (2235 W. 4th, 604 736-7660, Kitswine.com) hosts the occasional paid event, but distributor reps often come around to pour during the holidays.

• Liberty Wine Merchants (various locations, LibertyWineMerchants.com) hosts paid events throughout the year. If you’re hoping for a free taste at its Point Grey, Robson Street or Granville Island shops, your best chance is on Friday afternoons.

• Mark Anthony (962 W. King Edward, 604 739-9463) usually has something to sample on Saturdays at 2 p.m., but you’ll need to call them then to find out what’s open.

• Pacific Spirits Wine Cellar (4474 Dunbar, 604 738-1299) offers tastings every Saturday from 3-6 p.m., but they’re only advertised in the shop.

• Sheraton Wall Centre Wine Shop (1075 Hornby, 604 893-7254) also doesn’t promote its tastings, which happen every Friday from 4-8 p.m.

The best way to keep on top of wine events in Vancouver — or anywhere in the world — is at LocalWineEvents.com. Subscribe to their email bulletin and you’ll receive automatic schedules.

Size Matters

Mari Kane — Mon, 08 Oct 2007 20:14:00 +0000

Life is too short to be small
Size is what really counts!
Ladies like em big!

If the above come-ons sound like email spam for penis enlargements, actually, that’s what they are. I find them handy because, ironically, these statements could also be used to lobby for the inflation of wine bottles.

Have you ever been three at a restaurant and you buy a 750 ml bottle to share over dinner. As the meal progresses and the wine level drops, you realize that there is not enough in that bottle to wash down your last chuck of pork tenderloin and are forced to contemplate ordering wine by the glass to attain satisfaction. What a pain. You think, if only there was another glass or two in that bottle, this dinner would be perfect.

Other times, you and your partner are dining at home and prefer not to try finishing a regular bottle, so you opt for a 375 ml half bottle. Again, it’s just not enough for real satisfaction. 375 ml is too little and 750 is too much. Good gracious, Goldilocks, which size is just right?

It’s strange that in the 1970’s rush to go metric wine bottles got stuck with rough sizes like 187 ml, 375 ml, 750 ml and 1.5 ml. Why couldn’t the standardization geniuses use round numbers for smaller bottles, like 250 ml, 500 ml, and 1 liter? Once you get past the 1.5 ml magnum, the bottles are all evenly divisible, but who ever buys a 3 liter Jerboam or a 6 liter Imperial?

Back in pre-metric day wine was packaged in all kinds of different-sized bottles. The Americans opted for standardizing the 750 ml measurement because it was so close in volume to a “Fifth,” which is liquor drinker’s parlance of one-fifth of a gallon. The Europeans went along with the 750 ml size in order to streamline exports to the U.S.

What a pity they didn’t opt for 500 ml and 1 liter bottles. I wish more producers would because as the spam mail says, Sized Matters!

Here’s an Italian wine I come to know and love, even though it only comes in a 750ml bottle.

Frescobaldi 2004 Campo Al Sassi Rosso Di Montalcino
$24 ish at Kitsilano
Made from the Sangiovese Grosso grape, this Tuscan beauty is deep garnet – almost opaque – and has long, slender legs. Flavors of earthy red and black fruits, violets, herbs and mushrooms jump from the glass. The oak is nicely balanced with blackberries, sage, and rosemary, and it has a rich, warm mouthfeel and some delectable acidity that carries through to the finish of pretty red fruit and fine smooth tannins. A delightful pizza or pasta wine.

Whoa, Tignanello!

Mari Kane — Sun, 30 Sep 2007 20:47:00 +0000

Recently, I spent a week at my family’s farm at the base of the thumb in Michigan, hanging out with my 84 year-old dad while my mom was in California. While rummaging through the antique ice box-turned-liquor cabinet, I found a bottle of Antinori Tignanello. From 1988! Imagine, a twenty year-old Super Tuscan tucked away in the home of a Libfraumilch lover and a recovered alcoholic! This is a Sangiovese/Cabernet blend that sells for upwards of $75 USD for current releases, and online sellers are advertising this vintage at over $200 USD!

Here’s what Wine Spectator said about it back in 1993:
“The finest Tignanello available. A muscular, big wine, with beautiful aromas and flavors of fruit, berry and chestnut. Full-bodied, with solid tannins. It shows great structure and should improve into next century. Try after 1998.-- JS.”

I called my mom and asked her how she managed to acquire such a rare, expensive bottle, and at first she was stumped. Then, she remembered the wake they held for my late 106 yr-old great Aunt Blanche. Blanche’s grandson, the doctor, had brought it along with another, open bottle. Mom remembered him trying to tell her about the Tignanello, but she didn't pay attention and only poured the opened bottle.

So, for the past year and a half this prize sat in the dark of the old ice-box, ignored and unappreciated. It’s a good thing my sister hadn't been to visit as she would have finished it and thought, hmmmm, good wine, never knowing its true worth. Now, it’s mine, mine, all mine. Nya-ah-ah!

My quandary is this: to drink, hold or sell. What should I do?
____________________________________________________________

While I was thinking about the lofty Tignanello, I tried a couple things closer to earth:

Jim Jim 2005 Shiraz
Hugh Hamilton Wines
McLaren Vale, Australia
$22-ish at Kits Wine

Deep purple with long skinny legs, this puppy has earthy black fruit and spicy red licorice on the nose. Jammy plum and blackberries dominate the palate, with hints of sweet toasty oak and root beer. It has a rich, thick body and a nice, soft mouthfeel and finishes with black raspberry and tree bark. Perfect with lamb souvlaki.

Kenwood 2005 Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley, California
Bought in California, but available at the LCB for $25 Canadian bucks.

Brick red color of medium opacity, it has a nose of smoked cherries in a sandelwood bowl. In the mouth, it’s a cherry/strawberry pie sprinkled with spices, blessed with lively acidity, and has a fresh-from-the-oven warm fruit feel. The finish is long and earthy and it lives up to its 14.5% alcohol level. Tasted great with the soy sauce marinated steelhead fillet